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Connection Between Surfing & Science

Surfer and marine scientist Bob Brewin rides the waves to collect data on coastline health. The data he collects helps us understand everything from global warming to fishery production.

Oceanography is the branch of Earth science that studies the ocean. It covers a wide range of topics, including marine organisms and ecosystem dynamics; ocean currents, waves, and geophysical fluid dynamics; plate tectonics and the geology of the sea floor; and fluxes of various chemical substances and physical properties within the ocean and across its boundaries.

These diverse topics reflect multiple disciplines that oceanographers blend to further knowledge of the world ocean and understanding of processes within: astronomy, biology, chemistry, climatology, geography, geology, hydrology, meteorology and physics.

Paleoceanography studies the history of the oceans in the geologic past.

This article is from Science’s archive and we’ve originally published it on an earlier date.

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